When autumn arrives in Sardinia, home kitchens fill with the scent of toasted almonds, citrus zest and freshly baked biscuits. Among the island's most recognizable traditional sweets are papassini (also called papassinos or pabassinas, depending on the area): firm, fragrant cookies enriched with raisins and nuts. They are especially associated with autumn and the period around All Saints' Day, although families enjoy them throughout the year.
What are Sardinian papassini?
Papassini take their name from the Sardinian word associated with raisins. Recipes vary considerably from town to town and household to household. Some use walnuts as well as almonds, some include anise, and others feature different fats or flavorings. Many are cut into diamonds and finished with a white sugar glaze and colorful sprinkles. This is an approachable home-style version rather than a claim to be the island's only authentic recipe.
Ingredients for about 25–30 cookies
For the dough
- 500 g plain flour
- 150 g granulated sugar
- 150 g unsalted butter, softened (or traditional lard, if preferred)
- 2 medium eggs
- 150 g raisins
- 150 g almonds, lightly toasted and roughly chopped
- 10 g baking powder
- Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon and 1 orange
- 1 pinch of salt
- 2–4 tablespoons milk or water, only if needed
For the glaze
- 180 g icing sugar
- 2–3 tablespoons lemon juice or water
- Colorful sugar sprinkles, optional
Preparation: about 30 minutes, plus 20 minutes to soak the raisins. Baking: approximately 18–22 minutes per tray. Oven: 175°C conventional (about 165°C fan).
How to make papassini: step by step
- Soak the raisins. Cover them with warm water for about 20 minutes, drain thoroughly and pat dry. This helps prevent dry pockets in the finished biscuits.
- Prepare the almonds. Toast briefly in a dry pan or low oven until fragrant, let cool, then chop coarsely.
- Mix the dry ingredients. Combine flour, baking powder, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the lemon and orange zest.
- Make the dough. Rub in the softened butter, then mix in the eggs. Knead just until a cohesive dough forms. Add a little milk or water only if the mixture is too crumbly.
- Add raisins and almonds. Fold them through evenly. Avoid overworking the dough.
- Shape the cookies. Roll the dough on a lightly floured surface to about 1.5 cm thick. Cut into traditional diamond shapes, roughly 5–6 cm long.
- Bake. Arrange on lined trays with a little space between them. Bake in a preheated 175°C conventional oven for 18–22 minutes, until lightly golden around the edges. Times vary with thickness and oven.
- Cool and decorate. Let the cookies cool completely. Mix icing sugar with just enough lemon juice or water to make a thick glaze, spread a little on each biscuit and finish with sprinkles if desired. Allow the glaze to set.
Tips for the best texture
Papassini are traditionally more substantial than soft sponge-like cookies. Do not bake until deeply brown; they firm up as they cool. Dry the soaked raisins well so the dough does not become sticky. If you prefer a rustic finish, leave the glaze off. For a variation, replace part of the almonds with chopped walnuts or add a small pinch of anise.
Why papassini are an autumn tradition
Across Sardinia, raisin-and-nut sweets are closely linked to family baking in the cooler months, particularly around late October and early November. They make use of ingredients that store well and are often prepared for sharing. Exact customs, names and ingredient ratios differ by locality, which is part of their charm.
Where to try papassini in Sardinia
Look for them in local pasticcerie, bakeries and food markets, especially during autumn. If you are visiting Alghero, Sassari, Nuoro or inland villages, ask for papassini or the local spelling. A bakery's version may be denser, sweeter or more heavily glazed than the recipe above.
Storage and serving
Keep fully cooled papassini in an airtight container at room temperature for roughly a week, away from humidity. Serve with coffee or tea, or offer them as part of an assortment of Sardinian sweets. Because they contain wheat, eggs, dairy and nuts in this version, check ingredients carefully when serving guests with allergies.
A taste of Sardinian autumn at home
You do not need a special occasion to bake papassini. Their mix of raisins, almonds and citrus captures the comforting side of Sardinian autumn, and the recipe is easy to adapt to your family's preferred texture and sweetness.
